Many famous brands have iconic items. Whether it's a logo, form, or detail, you can immediately tell it's from that brand.
However, the MARGARET HOWELL Linen Shirt is somewhat different. Its restrained design subtly exudes elegance.
In this article, we delve into the charm of this timelessly beloved linen shirt that transcends trends and eras.
A Top British Brand: Its Origins in Men's Shirts
To understand the allure of the Shirting Linen, it's essential to know the brand's history.MARGARET HOWELL was founded by British designer Margaret Howell. Born in 1946 in Surrey, she studied fine art at Goldsmiths College, University of London, and began making accessories.
Her handmade pieces were featured in VOGUE, and as her career flourished, she ventured into clothing design, with a particular interest in men's shirts.
In 1970, she started designing men's shirts. Her aim was to use high-quality fabrics, like those in bespoke shirts from Jermyn Street, yet create lightweight and supple casual shirts.
At that time, men's shirts were mainly dress shirts worn with suits. A shirt that could be worn casually and comfortably was a novel concept.
In 1977, she opened her first shop on South Molton Street in London. Initially a men's store, it quickly attracted many female customers, prompting her to launch a women's line.
In 2002, she opened a new store on Wigmore Street. This flagship store sold men's and women's wear, along with her selected goods, books, and interior products, doubling as a design office.
In 1983, she opened her first standalone store in Japan, in Aoyama, Tokyo. Following exposure in many fashion magazines, her fame surged.
Today, the brand has grown to include not just wear but also bags, shoes, and interior items. However, shirts remain the brand's core. Even for women, they are called shirts instead of blouses, and models with frills or round collars maintain a men's shirt aesthetic.
Original Linen Fabric Developed in Japan
Next, let's dive into the appeal of the Shirting Linen, a staple of the spring/summer collection. We spoke with Yuki Iida, a designer at TSI Holdings for MARGARET HOWELL."Linen has been a material we’ve used since the brand’s inception. Linen is light, breathable, and has a comfortable, smooth texture. It's a natural functional material. It has been used not only for shirts and jackets but also for accessories and home wear."
Linen shirts have been consistently produced since the brand's beginning.
"The reason we've continually made them is simple: the designer has a strong affinity for the material. Although it doesn't have particularly iconic details, the linen shirt gets updated every season to reflect the contemporary feel in terms of color, pattern, and tailoring. I believe its completeness sets it apart from other brands."
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