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2022.10.19

New Balance’s Iconic Masterpiece! The Evolution of the Constantly Updating "990"

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Released in 1982, the New Balance "990" has seen continuous updates without changing its model number. It has now reached version 5. With each update, this masterpiece has enhanced both comfort and design. The upcoming release of the "990v6" in Fall 2022 was discussed with Shigeyuki Kunii of mita sneakers, a key figure in a renowned sneaker shop in Japan, who shared insights into the evolution of this iconic shoe.

Gray Was a Sensational Color Back Then

In 1982, New Balance aimed to create the ultimate running shoe using cutting-edge technology of the time, resulting in the 990 after four years of dedicated development. Priced at $100 per pair (then approximately 280 yen per dollar), it was advertised as "990 out of 1000 points," marking a significant impact on the market. Kunii recalls this history.
Without sparing time or expense, a four-year development using the latest technology resulted in the first "990." It was sold at a high price for the time period
Without sparing time or expense, a four-year development using the latest technology resulted in the first "990." It was sold at a high price for the time period
The outsole was equipped with Vibram soles. Nowadays, the Vibram logo is yellow, but back then, it was the same color as the sole, which is interesting
The outsole was equipped with Vibram soles. Nowadays, the Vibram logo is yellow, but back then, it was the same color as the sole, which is interesting
"New Balance is now associated with the color gray, but back then, gray was quite a bold choice. Running shoes were generally white, making gray a cutting-edge color. There are various theories as to why New Balance chose gray, one being the cloudy weather in Boston. However, a more convincing theory suggests that as city runners increased, they opted for a color that matched the concrete and Boston's scenery."
 
The New Balance "990" series has now reached "990v5." What's the history of its evolution, from the first model known as "990v1" onward? Kunii continues.
The "990v2," released in 1998, introduced entirely new design concepts compared to the earlier 900 series and the original "990," marking a radical departure
The "990v2," released in 1998, introduced entirely new design concepts compared to the earlier 900 series and the original "990," marking a radical departure
The reinforcement parts spanning the saddle and toe were enlarged, improving stability
The reinforcement parts spanning the saddle and toe were enlarged, improving stability
"After the release of the first '990,' models like '995' and '996' followed. The '996,' launched in 1988, gained worldwide popularity and increased recognition of the 900 series. It's interesting that the '990v2' didn't immediately follow. The '990v2' was only released in 1998. Then, 30 years after the original model, '990v3' was born in 2012, followed by '990v4' in 2016 and the current '990v5' in 2019.
"This year marks the 40th anniversary of the original's debut, with the '990v6' slated for a November release. The 'v' in 'v3' or 'v5' stands for 'version', indicating the continuous updates of the 990 model."

Appealing Design & Functionality that Doesn’t Leave Users Behind

With the release of the "990v6" just around the corner, excitement is building for the "990" series. Of the various sneakers Kunii has seen, which "990" model is his favorite?
 
"It's a frequently asked question. As for me, I always prefer the latest model. Even if I didn't wear past models in real time, delving into them can develop a fondness or interest. Of course, I have strong attachments to models I experienced in real time. But personally, I always favor the latest model—currently '990v5.' That's why I'm eagerly anticipating the '990v6' and can't wait to wear it."
The "990v3," launched in 2012, 30 years after the original's debut. It featured a more practical look, unique diamond pattern on the tongue, and ribbed N logo
The "990v3," launched in 2012, 30 years after the original's debut. It featured a more practical look, unique diamond pattern on the tongue, and ribbed N logo
Mesh was used extensively for breathability. The arch featured a graphite stability web to prevent twisting and lighten weight
Mesh was used extensively for breathability. The arch featured a graphite stability web to prevent twisting and lighten weight
Why is the New Balance "990" series so popular? Kunii shares his perspective.
 
"The '990' series significantly differs from the 1000 or 500 series in that its universal design doesn’t alienate users. The design consistently inherits past models, preventing the typical issue of 'the latest model being completely different.' That's a major attraction.
 
"Moreover, there appear to be two main reasons for its widespread popularity. From a fashion standpoint, the 'Normcore' movement that emerged about a decade and a half ago saw collection brand designers, primarily in Europe, deliberately start wearing the authentic New Balance sneakers, boosting its appeal.
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