2024.02.05

Nomasei, a Paris-Based Shoe Brand by Luxury Brand Veterans, Features in "Emily in Paris"

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The shoe brand 'Nomasei' is rapidly gaining popularity among Parisians. With the successful Paris pop-up event in the fall of 2023 leading to a long-term extension, the brand's momentum is only increasing.

Since its establishment in 2019, the brand's fans have steadily increased due to its distinctly design with a feminine, curvy line twist on classic styles, high-quality craftsmanship and reasonably priced shoes.

Co-founders Paule Tenaillon and Marine Braquet met at 'CHLOÉ', where Paule was a shoe designer and Marine was a part of the product development team, where they came up with the idea to launch a shoe brand.

Both are veterans with 20 years of experience in luxury maison such as 'CHANEL', 'DIOR','LOUIS VUITTON','JIMMY CHOO'. Having been in the luxury fashion industry, a fast environment of trends and production cycle, they both reflected that they had unknowingly lost their joy in designing. In order to revive their passion for design and return to the essence of luxury, they launched 'Nomasei'.

This time, we will delve into the charm of 'Nomasei' by hearing about their experiences in the luxury industry, their aesthetics, and the transparency of their production backgrounds.

PROFILE

Left: Paule Tenaillon / Right: Marine Braquet

Nomasei Co-founders

Wanting to Return to the Essence of Luxury and the Roots of Loving Shoemaking

First, could you tell us about your backgrounds?

PauleBefore launching 'Namasei', I was the head designer for shoes at 'CHLOÉ'. I have built up a 20-year career in luxury brands such as 'CHANEL', 'JIL SANDER', 'GIVENCHY', and 'JIMMY CHOO'.

In addition to the creative foundation as a designer, I also love the technical aspect. While working at these wonderful brands, I learned how to carve heels with top craftspeople, and my perspective became sharper and stronger working alongside talented designers in the luxury maison.

MarineI studied political science at the IFM fashion school in Paris and later learned about fashion. I began my career in the press office at 'DIOR' and then specialized in product management, focusing particularly on shoes.

Shoes are very technical products, which I have always loved. I worked on shoe product development at 'LOUIS VUITTON', then joined 'CHLOÉ' in 2014 where I met Paule. I think my experience of growth through my work at 'CHLOÉ' triggered the start of my own business.

Having worked very closely with suppliers, factories, and designers, I learned a lot about the luxury shoe business and how shoes are made. While it is a glamorous job, I am also a very down-to-earth person from Cannes in southern France, deriving energy from small joys of life.

Could you tell us about the origin of the brand name "Nomasei".

PauleNoma is a reverse of the Italian word for "hand", and Sei means 6. Therefore, "Nomasei" means "six hands". The name embodies the idea of putting the spotlight on the craftsperson.

We also chose a meaningful name in that we offer company shares to the shoe factory. The dream cannot be realized by just the two of us. To make that dream come true, we need a community. We named it to honor all the "hands" in our community.

What motivated you to found the brand, stemming from your experiences at luxury maisons?

PaulTwenty years ago, when I started designing shoes for luxury brands, we were only releasing collections twice a year. This allowed us to work closely with craftsmen to create timeless shoes of perfect quality.

However, I found myself questioning the situation in many brands where there was no time to enjoy the process because they were constantly on the go to release four to ten collections a year.

Having invested my passion as a creator into my work, I wanted to regain that passion and take pride in my work.

Working with Marine at 'CHLOÉ', we found that we complemented each other very well. We shared the same personal goal of wanting to slow down the cycle for ourselves and the planet as well as a creative vision for the brand. We also believed in the importance of supporting shoe craftsmen, insisting on good working conditions and ensuring time for creation.

Furthermore, we felt it was important to offer genuinely thoughtful luxury shoes at an affordable price to prospective customers. This led to the birth of 'Nomasei'.

After leaving 'CHLOÉ', with the help of friends, we were able to find a factory in Montopoli, Italy.

They were the perfect partners for 'Nomasei', believing in our vision and supporting our goals. I took charge of the design and production of the first collection prototypes, while Marine worked on the strategy during weekends and late hours while commuting to the company.

MarineThe motivation behind starting 'Nomasei' was to reconstruct work processes. While we were passionate about shoemaking, we wanted to return to the essence of it, which is our love for creating shoes, and the intrinsic luxury therein.

Building a good relationship with the craftsmen was also important to me, and I wanted to find the correct way to do it. This also involved creating a meaningful project that would change the way fashion is consumed and have a positive impact, not just for the shoe brand.

How do you apply the experience you cultivated in the luxury industry to 'Nomasei'?

PaulCollaborating with the factory and allowing them to take the time to make quality products is perhaps the most important thing. Products wouldn't exist without craftsmen, and in the relationship between designers and craftsmen, the fundamental principle is never to sacrifice quality.

Since creation takes time, I believe it's best not to develop too many models and to allow ample time for creation.

Pricing Must Respect the Work of Craftsmen and the Lifestyle of Consumers

Please tell us about your design process for creating a collection.

PaulWe start from the history, function, origin, and purpose of the shoes. This is because shoes were originally made for practical purposes, and that functionality and comfort are just as important as fashion styles.

In addition, it's important to be a desirable fashion item that fits with the trend, that possesses the quality of luxury craftsmanship. We also insist on an original design that has been thoughtfully designed down to the millimeter to find the right balance.

At the same time, we value practicality, and we never compromise on the comfort of the details such as the structure of the heel and upper, memory foam (shock absorption), and material comfort, which feels like a second skin.

Our inspirations often come from everyday things such as Italian colors, slow-paced time, cuisine, and interior design. Also, the sporty stripe on the zipper part, which is our brand's signature, is inspired by roller skater apparel of the '70s.

You've managed to strike a balance between high quality, transparency, and sustainability while keeping your prices accessible. Do you have a particular commitment to pricing?

MarinePricing is indeed very important, especially now when many luxury brands are continuously raising their prices.

We're not resistant to setting high prices in order to provide high-quality products and services. However, the price must respect the work of the craftsmen and the lifestyle of the consumers.

In practical terms, this means that a fair price should be paid for the work of the craftsmen and the price should also be acceptable to the consumers. In setting the prices, it's also crucial to consider the reality of people's livelihoods and ensure that it doesn't impose an excessive burden.

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