Relay Column: An Essay on Jewelry × Technology - A Response From Contemporary Jewelry (Makiko Akiyama)

If a person from the jewelry field were to tackle the theme of fashion × technology, it would only make sense to approach it as jewelry × technology at this stage of receiving the baton for this relay column. However, the problem is that I am rather weak when it comes to technology in the realm of craftsmanship, and moreover, even within the subset of jewelry, my expertise lies in a specialized area known as contemporary jewelry that professes self-expression and artistic expression. Many of its creators react with aversion to the mention of digital technology. In essence, what I want to convey is that I, like many in this field, generally struggle with technology.

If I were told to choose a different theme, that would be the end of it. However, I couldn’t resist the temptation of challenging a genre I’ve neglected, fueled by a modest desire for improvement and a more selfish desire to showcase something valuable since there seem to be few in Japan who can discuss contemporary jewelry intertwined with jewelry × technology. Thus, I ultimately decided to go with jewelry × technology. All of the preceding discussion is a form of excuse for this somewhat ambitious theme setting, so please allow for a few shortcomings. With that, I can confidently dive into the main topic.

What exactly is jewelry? There are countless aspects to enumerate, but here I'll point out its nostalgic character. The basic forms of rings and necklaces have remained unchanged since ancient times, and even in modern times, ancient styles have repeatedly risen from the ashes like a phoenix. The role of serving as a memory device, like someone’s memento or heritage, transcends nostalgia and borders on sentimentality. Of course, trends exist in the world of jewelry, but they are merely surface phenomena. In other words, they are the exact opposite of forward-thinking technology. Nonetheless, the convergence of the two is advancing in forms such as smart jewelry, and according to a report from this June, substantial growth in the smart jewelry and accessories market is anticipated in the near future.

However, there are perplexing aspects to observe. For instance, wearable devices are sometimes treated synonymously with smart jewelry or digital jewelry, making it difficult to distinguish between them. Jane Wallace, a jewelry maker and researcher, has detailed this in her studies. According to the materials I reviewed, the term digital jewelry can refer to jewelry equipped with electronic devices or to the broader representation of jewelry in the metaverse, but here it will refer to the former.

In her research paper titled "Emotionally charged: a practice-centred enquiry of digital jewellery and personal emotional significance," Wallace focuses on the aspect of jewelry as a carrier of human emotions and thoughts. She explores the potential of digital jewelry that carries this legacy, promoting the convergence of contemporary jewelry and digital technology. Although this paper dates back to 2007 and may be considered old, it addresses universal issues relevant to contemporary times and is often referenced in subsequent studies, which is why I wish to follow this lead.