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2024.09.25

What Are "Human Stem Cell Cosmetics"? Asking a Beauty Medical Professional About Safety & Efficacy

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Originating from regenerative medicine, "Human Stem Cell" cosmetics have gained attention in recent years. With a variety of products being released, are we able to correctly understand the ingredients and their efficacy?
To clarify, I spoke with Seiko Ishii, the representative of the Dr. Ishii Group, about the safety and effectiveness of human stem cell cosmetics and the currently available "Human Stem Cell Essence" from Ishii Clinic Beauty Lab.
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Seiko Ishii
Seiko Ishii

Representative of Doctor Ishii Group

What Kind of Ingredients Are Human Stem Cells?

Recently, human stem cells have been gaining attention in the beauty industry, but what exactly are they?
First, while they are often referred to collectively as "human stem cells," there are actually three distinct types.
The first type is "human stem cells." These are the cells themselves used in regenerative medicine. Since they involve extracting the individual's cells, culturing them, and reinjecting them into the body, this type is exceedingly expensive and cannot be included in commercial cosmetics since it requires using the individual's own cells.
The second type is the "human stem cell culture fluid" (going by the product name "Human Stem Cell Essence") that we have recently released. This is a supernatant that contains the secreted liquid released when human stem cells are cultured, but it does not contain the stem cells themselves. Therefore, it was previously disposed of, but around 2006, it was discovered that the culture fluid contained growth factors and exosomes[1], leading to its adoption in medical fields and gaining attention in the beauty industry around 2011.
The final type is the "conditioned culture medium." This refers to the liquid used to culture human stem cells, which can be confusing as it might refer to either the solution post-culturing or pre-culturing. It seems that in the case of the pre-culture liquid, while it may contain some nutrients for culturing, it obviously does not contain any secretions from human stem cells. In the case of the liquid after culturing, it should be labeled as "conditioned culture medium (順化培養液)." Additionally, overly cheap products are likely to be pre-cultured liquid.
Thus, when picking up human stem cell cosmetics, it’s advisable to check the back label for the full list of ingredients to see if it mentions "human stem cell conditioned culture medium (ヒト幹細胞順化培養液)."
What effects does human stem cell culture fluid have?
It is said that human stem cell culture fluid contains numerous growth factors. As a result, it may help improve various skin concerns related to aging, such as fine lines, sagging, and acne. Among these, many individuals often notice an immediate improvement in skin tone, radiance, and firmness.
What about safety?
There was a report of a fatal incident related to human stem cell culture fluid injections last year. However, the issue was not with the substance itself; rather, it was due to the fluid having been left at room temperature for about a week before being mistakenly administered via injection.
I myself once injected human stem cells directly into the bloodstream about ten years ago, but I experienced anaphylactic shock after the third injection.
For cosmetic products containing human stem cell culture fluid, I believe such significant risks are not likely. Nonetheless, transdermal absorption can occur, so using substandard products may lead to rashes or breakouts. I encourage people to select cosmetics known for their safety and reliability, considering factors such as the quality of the donor's human stem cells and the hygienic management of the culturing process.
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