2023.08.31

Tracing the Shapes that Pioneered the Era at the 'Musée Yves Saint Laurent', the Only One in France

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At the studio on 5 avenue Marceau, the atmosphere is such that Yves Saint Laurent, a quintessential 20th-century fashion designer, seems as if he might return at any moment.

Glasses laid atop a design sketch and a glass cup at the edge of the desk, with stacks of books at the back obscured by assorted photographs and Yves Saint Laurent's self-portrait hanging on the wall. It feels as if he might have just stepped out for lunch, the space alive with his presence.

The 'Musée Yves Saint Laurent' located on the border of the 8th and 16th districts of Paris, was the headquarters of the fashion house from 1974 to 2002. It boasts an extensive collection of clothes, accessories, and drawings related to Yves Saint Laurent with its top floor preserving his studio exactly as it was. Yves Saint Laurent himself drew many of his designs here.

A sacred place that was once accessible only to insiders or high couture clients, has been open to the public as a museum since 2017.

A Building that Embodies the Elegance of Yves Saint Laurent

Subway line 9 at Alma-Marceau station with the Seine River flowing in front, coming up from underground and passing the crossroads with the Eiffel Tower leaping into view on the left, entering avenue Marceau through Avenue du Président Wilson, you reach a Second Empire style building that says "Yves Saint Laurent." It is the Musée Yves Saint Laurent.

The atmosphere of the Maison, whether it is shaped by the land or the Maison imbues the land with its flair, continues to envelop the building even after Yves Saint Laurent passed away in 2008, covering it with an aura of refinement that seeps into the streets of Paris like vapor from dry ice.

Nodding to the doorman and passing through the entrance to the museum, the reception area faced by a grand staircase draped with a massive chandelier gives more the impression of being a guest at the Maison rather than a visitor to a museum.

As it was not originally built as a museum, the exhibit rooms do not have a feeling of openness, but the ornate interior and architecture of the building put a pleasing pressure on visitors, welcoming them. It instills just the right amount of tension before they embark on the exhibition tour.

Witnessing a New Era of Fashion Created by Great Talent

The Musée Yves Saint Laurent hosts special exhibitions periodically. Until January 14, 2024, the 'Forme' exhibition was ongoing. This exhibition features about 40 fashion items from Yves Saint Laurent's haute couture and prêt-à-porter, alongside accessories and sketches, all brought to life through the staging by German artist Claudia Wieser.

Yves Saint Laurent's debut was striking. Following the death of Christian Dior in 1957, at 21 years old, he stepped in as the head designer of the Maison Dior. In 1958, his first collection introduced the 'Trapeze Line,' grabbing widespread attention.

Yves Saint Laurent at his desk, studio at 5 avenue Marceau, Paris, 1986. © Droits réservés

'Trapeze' in the Trapeze Line means trapezoid, a form that frees the waist and spreads outward towards the skirt hem at the knees. This innovation marked Yves Saint Laurent's talent to the world and signified Dior Maison's new step forward after losing Christian Dior.