2024.07.24
How "Shimokitazawa" Became the Mecca of Vintage Clothing: Insights from the Owner of Toyo Department Store
Shimokitazawa, located in Setagaya, Tokyo, buzzes with fashion-loving Generation Z and inbound tourists walking the streets behind the station. This area, home to about 200 vintage clothing stores, is known as Japan's leading "Mecca of Vintage Clothing."
Shimokitazawa offers a stark contrast to places like Omotesando and Daikanyama, which are only a 10-20 minute train ride away via Shibuya. While lacking flagships of high-end brands, its buildings exude a charmingly worn-out feel. Yet, the freedom of fashion is undeniably abundant.
We spoke with Katsunori Koshimizu, President of Toyo Kogyo and Vice Chairman of the Shimokita Shotengai Shinko Kumiai, to discuss the unique development of this one-of-a-kind neighborhood and its future.
PROFILE
Katsunori Koshimizu
Toyo Kogyo Co., Ltd. President and CEO
Shimokita Shotengai Shinko Kumiai Vice Chairman, Town Development Committee Chairman
Toyo Department Store: Leading Shimokitazawa's Vintage Culture
Born and raised in Shimokitazawa, Koshimizu is now at the forefront of its development as both the head of local real estate management company "Toyo Kogyo" and Vice Chairman of the Shimokita Shotengai Shinko Kumiai.The "Toyo Department Store," operated by Toyo Kogyo, is indispensable when discussing Japan’s vintage clothing culture.
Located in a back alley just off Shimokitazawa Station’s north exit, this building houses around 20 stores on one floor, offering items you won’t find elsewhere. Koshimizu opened Toyo Department Store in 2004.
"Various types of shops are tenants at Toyo Department Store, but the essential condition is that they deal in ‘one-of-a-kind,’ ‘handmade,’ or ‘original merchandise.’"
Toyo Kogyo built this facility on the site of a former parking lot they managed. Inside the dimly lit entrance, you’ll find a handmade watch store, shops that rent out small booths to artists for consignment sales, and vintage clothing stores offering "one-of-a-kind" items. Many fashion industry professionals launched their careers here. In the past 20 years, Toyo Department Store has come to symbolize Shimokitazawa’s culture.
"We wanted young people with little money to be able to open stores at low costs. Even if they weren’t fully prepared, we aimed to gather passionate individuals. Shimokitazawa itself started as a 'black market.'"
Toyo Department Store carries the weight of Shimokitazawa’s post-war history. Let’s take a step back to the 1940s.
From Black Market to Subculture Hub
After the war, Shimokitazawa had neither vintage clothing stores nor curry shops. Next to the station, goods and food from all over gathered, forming a market."Originally, Shimokitazawa was a quiet residential area in Setagaya, home to officers and their families. After the war, a black market established itself here, which later evolved into the 'Shimokitazawa Ekimae Shokuhin Ichiba’ adjacent to the station. For a long time, it was a shopping spot for housewives."
Established as a "black market" akin to Ueno’s Ameyoko shopping district, Shimokitazawa began to transform in the 1960s, largely driven by women's influence. The first industry to take root in Shimokitazawa was "women’s apparel."
"Gradually, apparel shops started opening up. Women’s clothing stores, in particular, stood out, attracting young working women who came to treat themselves to good clothing. It was more about high-quality casual wear than business fashion. There was even a trend for pants called 'Shimokita Mambo.'"
The 1970s saw significant changes.
"Driven by its proximity to cultural hubs like Shinjuku and Shibuya, fledgling musicians and theater artists moved their activities to Shimokitazawa. The area saw a rise in live music venues, bars, cafes, and theaters, partly due to lower land prices."
Iconic venues include the bar "Lady Jane," which opened in 1975, as well as theaters like "The Suzunari" and "Honda Theater," and live music venues like "Shimokitazawa Loft" and "Shimokitazawa Shelter." These spaces attracted aspiring stars and those skeptical of mainstream culture, fostering a haven for diverse subcultures. Thus, Shimokitazawa led the explosive diversification of subcultures in Japan.
"I think vintage clothing stores started appearing in Shimokitazawa in the 70s. They had personality and served as tools for self-expression. Plus, young people without much money could afford them. I remember it being called 'the town of vintage clothes' from around this time."
Simultaneously, small businesses offering casual foods like curry and ramen and secondhand bookstores began entering the market. Incidentally, Toyo Kogyo, which Koshimizu runs, was running a "movie theater," not a real estate business at the time. The 70s were also the golden age of cinema, with four theaters surrounding Shimokitazawa Station.
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