2022.11.12

Thinking About Medium Studies from the Perspective of Tactility: Using the Global Clothing Brand "UNIQLO" as a Clue (Anne Namba)

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Since the 1980s, the fashion context has often focused on symbolic values and representational functions. In other words, the "visual" elements of expressing individuality through clothing and showing differences from other groups have been the central topics of discussion.

On the other hand, in fashion, "tactile" values such as comfort from materials that suit the skin and comfort from materials suitable for the climate have also been pursued by people.

For example, in 2013, UNIQLO launched "AIRism" as a "second skin," globally delivering comfort felt by people around the world, and it has become a familiar item in Japan too.

This time, we interviewed Associate Professor Anne Namba of Seitoku University Learning Design Center and Information Education Center, who has been exploring tactile values through media studies and fashion, about the significance of tactile values and the characteristics of UNIQLO.

PROFILE

Anne Namba

Associate Professor at Shoei University Learning Design Center and Information Education Center (concurrent). Part-time lecturer at Keio University and others. Doctor of Interdisciplinary Information Studies (University of Tokyo).

Main papers include "拡張する表皮：複数化するスクリーンから透明なインターフェイスへ" 『現代思想』May 2015 (Solo). "情動の出来事性：インターフェイス・ライブ性・交感" 『情報学環紀要』April 2017 (Co-authored). "ユニクロのAir-Rhythm：インターフェイシング〈相互調整〉と触覚的価値の再創出" 『vanitas 005』March 2018 (Solo). Co-authored book includes "ソーシャルメディア・スタディーズ" (2021, Hokuju).

UNIQLO Rejuvenating Tactile Values

Professor Namba, who specializes in media theory and started with film studies, what led you to write the UNIQLO-related paper, "ユニクロのAir-Rhythm インターフェイシング（相互調整）と触覚的価値の再創出"?

Clothing can be seen as an extension and externalization of the "skin," as suggested by Marshall McLuhan's media theory. In this sense, fashion is an extension of the skin, and through clothing, we rewrite or stage our skin.

In this context, observing UNIQLO from the perspective of a medium researcher, it aims to be a standard apparel brand while incorporating symbolic value through collaborations with high-end brands. It evolves as a brand by utilizing technology suited to the environment to bring "comfort" and wearability, thereby refreshing the "tactile" values in the fashion industry.

UNIQLO combines all these aspects, succeeding both theoretically and commercially, which is why I regard it as a leading-edge company.

Specifically, what are UNIQLO's features from the "tactile" perspective?

Fashion functions as a device to adjust so that the person wearing it experiences a tactile sense of "comfort," not just as a visual symbol representing personal individuality.

Thus, UNIQLO develops climate-appropriate clothing like AIRism, optimizing the physical environment and delivering tactile "comfort" as a "second skin" globally. Moreover, it is advancing localization by considering regional characteristics.

UNIQLO has a strategy that integrates both visual and tactile values, the technology in productization, and the wearer's environment, which, from the theoretical perspective of medium studies, is quite successful.

Conventional media studies often discuss "technology-based" and "environment-based" aspects separately, though ideally, they should be considered in an integrative fashion. However, discussions tend to focus on technology. Similarly, in "visual" and "tactile" debates, the visual aspect has been the main focus.

Even among existing fashion brands, technical aspects in product development and visual appearance have been the focal points, much like current media studies. However, UNIQLO stands out by aiming for optimal tactile values through technology suited to the climate in its development and production compared to other apparel brands.