2024.06.14
A Mist, yet it Still Adheres to Skin? The Sunscreen Revolution of Biore UV "Shunkan Mist UV"
Kao Corporation's "Biore UV" is the No. 1 selling brand in the sunscreen market［1］. As a leader in the Japanese sunscreen market, it has introduced many groundbreaking products over the years.
Among these, the "Aqua Rich Aqua Protect Mist" (hereafter referred to as Shunkan Mist UV), which was initially released exclusively at select drugstores in 2022 and nationally in 2023, quickly gained attention for its light, non-gas mist type with high UV protection. In its first year of nationwide release, it shipped a cumulative 6.7 million units (including both bottles and refills) and quickly disappeared from shelves.
What makes Shunkan Mist UV different from other sunscreens? We spoke with Fukui and Nakatani from the Kao Skincare Research Laboratory about the inspiration and dedication behind the development of Shunkan Mist UV and its unique appeal.
PROFILE
Takashi Fukui
Head of the Skincare Research Laboratory. Involved in research and development of sunscreens and other products.
PROFILE
Arisu Nakatani
Principal Researcher at the Skincare Research Laboratory. Has been engaged in cosmetic development research since joining the company 25 years ago.
From Occasional Use to Daily Use: Aiming for an Everyday Sunscreen
When did your research on sunscreens begin?
Takashi Fukui (hereafter, Fukui)Our research on sunscreen began in the 1980s. At that time, sunscreen was mainly perceived as something used during leisure activities like going to the beach or pool. However, at Kao, we believed daily UV care was extremely important.
Biore has been creating familiar products for daily life such as facial cleansers, detergents, and care products. We were committed to researching sunscreens that combined a light feel with UV protection so they could be used not just during leisure but every day.
You've released numerous sunscreens over the years. Can you tell us about the key products that marked turning points?
FukuiI believe there are three major products that changed the sunscreen scene.
The first turning point was "Sarasara UV," released in 1997. At the time, there was no limit on SPF, leading to a competitive atmosphere where the focus was on products with high SPF like SPF 75 and 100. At Kao, high-SPF products contained more active ingredients to block UV rays. These ingredients, called absorbers or scatterers, could make the product greasy or leave a white residue, making daily use uncomfortable.
We aimed for a new approach with "Sarasara UV," releasing a sunscreen marketed as "silky smooth sunscreen" to find a balance between practicality and daily use.
The second turning point was 2010 with the release of the "Aqua Rich Series." Until about 2010, oil-based and shakeable sunscreens like "Sarasara UV" were prevalent. However, we wanted to create a sunscreen that could be used daily, almost like a serum. This led to the development of the gel-type "Aqua Rich Series." These products made daily sunscreen use more comfortable, akin to skincare.
The Third Turning Point: The Birth of "Shunkan Mist UV"
FukuiThe third turning point was the 2022 limited release of "Shunkan Mist UV" at select drugstores. Sunscreens can lose effectiveness through sweat and friction, making reapplication crucial. The ease of use of "Shunkan Mist UV" encouraged users to reapply it, effectively changing user behavior and usage scenes.
What inspired the development of "Shunkan Mist UV"?
Arisu Nakatani (hereinafter, Nakatani)I originally worked on sunscreen products, particularly aerosol spray formulations. Spray sunscreens often carry the image of being "convenient and mess-free but leaving users unsure if it's effectively applied," making them more of a talismanic rather than a practical sunscreen.
Even though sprays with SPF50 or PA+++ or PA++++ ratings are effective, they still carry that image. My initial motivation was to develop a formulation that could create a uniform film-like application, providing a sense of assurance, and thereby alleviating customers' worries.
Several challenges with aerosols include causing coughs, requiring specific usage locations, being opaque, having unpleasant gas, being difficult to dispose of, oily impressions, and not being allowed on planes. Overcoming these issues with aerosols seemed to have limitations.
I wanted people to carry sunscreen with them for reapplication. This led to the idea of creating a UV mist that one would want to use repeatedly, anytime and anywhere.
Specifically, how did you shape this idea into reality?
NakataniTo first capture interest, I aimed for a design that would make people want to try it, balancing a refreshing user experience with high effectiveness.
As customers often expressed frustration with not being able to see the remaining amount in aerosol cans, we decided on a transparent container that shows the contents to invoke a feeling of "Wow, that's interesting."
Sunscreens generally have a powdery or drying image, and aerosol sunscreens often seemed greasy or had low adhesion. So, we expanded on the idea of "Wouldn't it be great if a sunscreen felt watery and pleasant to use?"
Moreover, the concept of "Isn't it amazing if it's watery but still effectively shields the skin?" led us to develop technology where a uniform film forms on the skin upon spraying.
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