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2023.09.19

What is Levi's Mysterious Line 'RED'? Explained in Detail by a Group of Collectors

Levi's. The world-renowned jeans brand needs no introduction.
Established in 1853 and completing the prototype of today's jeans in 1873, Levi's is the origin of a major apparel genre and is steeped in history. They've exerted an influence on fashion that may not be seen again in the future.
For this reason, Levi's has woven a complex and intricate tapestry of fashion delight. With every detail, like the fabric, dyeing process, sewing, selvedge, and rivets, the appeal of their jeans has a cosmic breadth that has enthralled enthusiasts the world over. Collectors who continue to amass vintage models like the 501XX, World War-era models, the latest designer collaborations, custom orders, and store-limited products, in a sense, know Levi's better than Levi's itself.
There is one line that is exceptionally mysterious, and that line is 'Levi's®️ RED' or 'RED' for short. For this article, we conducted an interview with the collector group 'RED-no-kai' (literally, 'Red Club'). Introducing many real products, we've dived into the depths of jeans where there is no official information.
*All images in this article are provided by 'RED-no-kai'

Unarchivable Even by Official Levi's ? The 'Mysterious Denim'

'RED' is a unique series by Levi's that started in 1999. New products were released every season, but the series halted its releases in 2009. After that, it was occasionally resurrected and reissued, with the latest release happening in 2022. The Levi's official site in Japan currently (at the time of writing the article) still has a page for the 2021 AW Collection, but there's next to nothing written about the line itself.
Each product in the lineup possesses astonishing diversity, according to 'RED-no-kai'.
"The design taste of 'RED' changes significantly with each year (SS, AW seasons). Adding more, it tends to present highly experimental jeans each time."
An official archive does not exist.
"The details are unclear, but we think it may be impossible to archive. There are a few press books available, but not all models are featured there. Levi's has subsidiaries in each country, and each has planned their own 'RED'. Publicity and distribution networks are completely different in each country, so it may be impossible to grasp the whole picture."
Perhaps this is due to its standing as a massive global brand that has been around since before the concept of an archive even existed. As such, the 'RED-no-kai' is working on creating their own timeline of RED.
"Each of our members owns over 100 'RED' items, but we don't think we've managed to get a hold of all types. Sometimes we still discover new specimens. There are 'RED' products that we have yet to see."

The Astonishing Network of Collectors

Members of the 'RED-no-kai' who participated in the interview
Members of the 'RED-no-kai' who participated in the interview
'RED-no-kai' currently consists of nine members, including one woman, and none of them are associated with Levi's. How do they gather their products and information?
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