Over 70 Years in Ueno's Ameyoko, Discovering the "Truly Unchanged" at the Oldest Select Shop "Tamami"

When you hear the term "select shop," you might first think of the so-called Big Three: "SHIPS," "BEAMS," and "UNITED ARROWS." Among these, the oldest one, which expanded nationwide from Ueno's Ameyoko, is "SHIPS." However, there exists an even older, long-established shop in Ameyoko.

Continuously operating from the same location since the post-war era, we visited the oldest select shop in Ameyoko, which has been walking alongside its customers for decades.

Ameyoko, in Tokyo's Ueno area, still retains strong traces of the post-WWII market. Although the pandemic has caused some store turnover, the maze-like Ameyoko marketplace, crowded under the former Japan National Railways (JNR) guard, still holds a mysterious allure.
 
Located in this area is 'Tamami,' the shop we visited. Founded in 1950, just five years after the end of the war and the Tokyo air raids, it has been operating in the same spot for 72 years without a single move. Why is that? We asked Takeo Aiba, the third-generation president.

Under the JNR Guard, Selling Women's Underwear First

The first thing you notice at Tamami is the array of colorful patterned shirts. The various prints are overwhelming, unlike anything you'd see at other stores. Additionally, the classic drizzler jackets, a staple in Ameyoko, and other meticulously chosen men's wear are offered. Surprisingly, the first-generation owner started the business with a different type of product.
 
"The first-generation owner, Shintaro Aiba, returned to Japan about two years after the war ended while stationed in Singapore. In 1950, he started a business in a corner of Ameyoko, where our store still stands.

"At the time, there were no facilities like there are now; he laid out products in a makeshift manner on rush mats under the JNR guard. Initially, he bought and sold fish, but imported women's underwear sold particularly well."

The surrounding Ueno and Okachimachi areas, often said to be referred to as "Ameyoko" due to the numerous stores selling surplus U.S. military goods, also had many shops offering cosmetics and other items besides the women's underwear Aiba handled. Even now, the remnants of those times linger. The name "Tamami" itself doesn't quite sound like a men's select shop.
 
"The first-generation owner's partner was named Tama Aiba, which is how 'Tamami' came to be, meaning 'Beautiful Tama!' After starting with women's underwear, we began displaying men's underwear as well, such as 'JOCKEY,' 'B.V.D.,' and 'Hanes,' which became popular.

"Then, we gradually expanded further, and, for example, added 'JOCKEY' polo shirts, which increased the variety of our products."

The admiration for the American and British lifestyle, which blossomed rapidly in a time of scarcity. Imported clothing with high quality and a vibrant image sold exceptionally well.
 
"Over time, denim also started coming in. I've heard that Maruseru was the first to sell denim pants in Ameyoko under the name 'G-pants' (now relocated to Koto Ward). At that time, many stores across Ameyoko handled surplus jeans from the occupation forces.

"In Ameyoko, if one product sold well, everyone else would start selling it too (laughs). It's funny how no one minds that."

The Import Boom Pioneers, Showa Era Superstars Descend on Ameyoko

"Speaking of jeans, actor Takeo Chii once talked about his memories with Yujiro Ishihara when he came for a TV show recording. Yujiro had legs that were too long, so regular jeans didn’t fit him at all. That’s why he came to Ameyoko to buy American jeans, which he would then have customized to fit him perfectly."

At that time, authentic clothing items were hard to come by, and people had to go to resource-rich places like Ameyoko or Tachikawa, which had a U.S. military base. It's almost an urban legend now that Ken Takakura came to buy his favorite British brand, "Baracuta" Harrington jacket, from Ameyoko.

"In Japan, it wasn’t James Dean’s jeans but 'Yujiro's jeans,' and not Steve McQueen but 'Ken Takakura's Baracuta' that became the staples. And moving into the 70s, there was a trend of dressing like Red Zeppelin or Clapton, with long-collared shirts in floral or paisley patterns and bell-bottoms. Ultimately, trends arrive with stars and musicians."

The Old Ameyoko Import Shops Were Intimidating! Famous Stores that Scolded Customers for Touching Products

In the Showa era, beloved by major stars and setting trends in the 70s, imported clothing saw skyrocketing demand, selling out as soon as it was stocked. The legendary select shop that rose significantly from a corner of Ameyoko during this time was "Miura," later rebranded as "SHIPS."
 
In fact, "Miura" was founded in 1952, about two years later than "Tamami." "Even if we claim to be the oldest, the difference is just 2-3 years, so we’re pretty much the same," says Aiba modestly.
 
"When I was young and used to visit 'Miura' as a customer, it was intimidating! The store was small, but shirts were neatly folded and lined up without any gaps. If you tried to take one out, it would mess everything up, and they’d scold you saying, 'Don’t touch!' (laughs). It was like, 'I’ll get it for you. This is your size. Here, take this.'

"There were many unique and intimidating stores in the same row as 'Miura,' like 'Roof' and 'Marubishi.' Even today, there are famous stores like 'Moriya' that refuse interviews and photographs. However, our store wasn’t like that and was known as the friendly shop in Ameyoko from a long time ago." (laughs)