The brand masterkey is characterized by its creation of unparalleled clothing that mixes vintage items and various materials. Its unique style and unmatched quality captivate many fans. This time, we spoke with designer Tomohiro Ishibashi about the brand's roots and its clothing creation.
From a Single Sewing Machine in the Shop to an Atelier
"The foundation of the brand was about 20 years ago. We started as a select shop in Minami-Horie, Osaka City. From there, we began holding exhibitions, created our original brand, and gradually expanded our outlets beyond our store."We placed a sewing machine in the shop to manage the three aspects of vintage upcycles, select item sales, and our original brand. However, as the business grew, the need for an atelier surpassed that of a shop. Thus, we established an atelier in Kishiwada City, accumulating both our original brand and vintage upcycles into the current form."
"Not 'Clothes Necessary for Life' but 'Clothes That Enrich Life & Are Fun'"
Understanding the brand masterkey requires familiarity with the keywords "vintage mix" and "mixed materials." Here, let's delve into Ishibashi's design work."We are often asked, 'Is this a brand of remakes and upcycles?' but only about 20-30% of our items are vintage mixes; a considerable portion is non-vintage mixed material items. Many may associate us with a particular image based on this.
"We don't mind such associations, but our design philosophy leans away from subtractive design, emphasizing materials and intricate patterns, with thoughtful craftsmanship evident in every piece.
"The main theme is not 'clothes necessary for life' but 'clothes that enrich life and are fun,' driving our design work."
Tie-Dye "Vintage Mix" & "Mixed Materials"
Now, let's look at items for the Spring-Summer 2024 collection. Among our talking points are tie-dye items in both vintage mix and mixed materials categories. Let's hear the design approach while reviewing these."First, the vintage mix item 'RAVE' – an upcycled tie-dye T-shirt. To create one piece, we use about six tie-dye vintage T-shirts, arranging different dyed sections to minimize individual variation. The cuffs and hem use 100% silk tie-dye vintage scarves, offering various tie-dye expressions in one item."
"Next is a mixed-materials item. This shirt, named 'CHAOS,' utilizes multiple colors of deadstock tie-dye fabric, with distinct tie-dye colors in each segment.
"Within one piece, different tie-dye methods harmonize uniquely. We use knit material for the collar and cuffs, creating an upscale impression distinct from traditional tie-dye."
Cool and Waste-Free: Whole-Garment Knits Using Japanese Paper
Let's now introduce masterkey items that utilize notable materials in simple design, showcasing individuality through silhouette rather than diverse materials and cuttings."By finely slitting Japanese paper and weaving it into yarn, we achieve a material called 'Japanese paper knit,' offering breathability, quick-dry, and lightness. Introducing '3D BORDER,' a notable Spring-Summer item.
"The body and sleeves are 12-gauge whole-garment (seamless) border knits. Whole-garment production doesn't involve cutting and sewing, minimizing waste – a currently acclaimed sustainable method.
"Gathered cuffs add volume, and ribbed cuffs crafted with fluorescent threads emphasize the 'gathered feeling at the cuffs,' making it a cool, comfortable wear for the upcoming hot seasons."
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