2024.04.17

'ovoveil', the Sustainable Material Created from Eggshell Membranes

Last time, we interviewed Naoko Tosa, a professor/artist at Kyoto University, who runs the fashion brand 'Sound of Ikebana'. This brand decided to incorporate a new material in some looks of their 2024-2025 collection, which was revealed in New York in February this year – 'ovoveil', made from eggshell membranes (a thin layer found inside the eggshell's surface).

'ovoveil' was developed by 'Pharma Foods', a biotech company based in Kyoto, upcycling the 10,000 tons out of 260,000 tons of eggshells discarded annually in Japan. The company has long been engaged in research and development, aiming to create functional materials from natural materials. That's who developed 'ovoveil', an exciting new material which debuted last autumn. We spoke to the developers about the appeal of this innovative material.

The Enigmatic Material 'Egg' as the Inspirational Origin

Firstly, could you tell us about what led to the development of 'ovoveil'?

We have been researching chicken eggs for many years and pursuing numerous businesses. A chicken egg that turns into a chick after 21 days of incubation is an enigmatic material, condensed with substances necessary for the birth of life. It's this focus on drawing necessary components for the creation and sustenance of life from eggs that forms the core inspiration for our company.

We have been researching functional materials from food and cosmetics derived from eggs and developing various products. But while studying egg whites and yolks, we wondered if we could make something innovative from the eggshell membrane – a thin layer found inside the eggshell.

The eggshell membrane is a multifunctional protein membrane that possesses antibacterial properties and the ability to block UV rays, but it is prone to decomposition and difficult to collect and recycle.

A part of the 10,000 tons of eggshell membranes that are produced annually are used in products like cosmetics, which we also develop. But we thought that if we could develop textiles from eggshell membranes, perhaps we could create a fiber that is gentle on the skin.

After embarking on research and development, and after seven years of hard work, we finally managed to commercialize our product in the early part of last year. We envisage half of the fibers we produced being used in the apparel industry, which has a large production volume.

Additionally, eggs are not heavily constrained by cultural or religious restrictions and are eaten by many people worldwide, so we believe there is a business opportunity everywhere in the world.

What characteristics does 'ovoveil' possess?

'ovoveil' is known for its silky touch, similar to cashmere, and has been well received for its supple feel. At present, we are working with various partners to handle the developed cotton, thread, and textiles as 'ovoveil'.

We've also secured evidence of its beauty effects on the skin. In an experiment where we had test subjects wear 'ovoveil' and regular arm covers on each arm for 28 days, we observed changes in the skin.

As a result, only the arms using 'ovoveil' showed improved skin barrier function and enhanced skin moisture, as proven numerically. As it is cheaper than materials such as silk, we believe it can be utilized as an affordable high-quality beauty fiber.

A Newly Developed Sustainable Material

Could you explain the manufacturing process of 'ovoveil'?

We hygienically collect eggshells generated at an egg-cracking facility and use them after they have been separated by our partner companies’ separation equipment. The collected eggshell membranes are solubilized under specific conditions. We then mix this with the raw material of rayon to produce the fiber. The method is the first of its kind in the world, and we have filed for a patent currently.

'ovoveil', made using eggshell membranes, with a smooth and unique texture

'ovoveil' having been transformed into thread

Are the materials used in manufacturing sustainable?

Regenerated cellulose fibers are low in environmental impact, and the pulp used as a raw material also uses FSC certification (Forest Stewardship Council), so we can say that 'ovoveil' is a material that can be produced sustainably.

#Sustainability