2024.04.15

The Industry Is Paying Close Attention to the German Leather Goods Brand 'Lutz Morris': The Inheritance of Craftsmanship & Support for People Behind Its Minimal Design

Germany, a world-leading industrial country known for its automobiles and general machinery, is highly rated for its practical and robust products. Now, the leather goods brand Lutz Morris is coming under the spotlight in the industry, reflecting this German product design craftsmanship in fashion.

The founder and designer, Tina Lutz, was born and raised in Germany, studied fashion in Paris, and built her career under 'Issey Miyake' in Tokyo. After that, she was engaged in design at 'CALVIN KLEIN' and 'BARNEYS NEW YORK' in New York. After spending 24 years in the United States, she now lives in Milan.

She returned to her roots in Germany to establish the 'Lutz Morris' brand in 2017, a bag collection focusing on handmade products with pure and minimalistic designs in small family-run workshops using ethical methods mindful of environmental responsibility.

Proudly choosing primarily German-made materials, 90% of the leather she uses is procured from tanneries within Germany. Her design approach, which considers functionality and ergonomics, is more of a 'product design' rather than that of a 'fashion designer', according to her.

Her intricately designed bags, from the placement of pockets to the way the opening works and the adjustable shoulder straps, garnered attention in the industry immediately after debuting and were introduced to the world through an exclusive one-year contract with 'MATCHESFASHION'.

After various experiences in the fashion industry, she arrived at the idea of having her brand aim to carry on technology and help people. From the start of the 'Lutz Morris' venture to the real intention behind the minimal design, we spoke to Tina about her thoughts.

PROFILE

Tina Lutz

Born in Germany. Studied fashion design and pattern-making in Paris. Joined the design team at 'Issey Miyake' after moving to Tokyo. Later moved to the United States where she worked in New York and San Francisco for 24 years. In 2017, she established the leather goods brand 'Lutz Morris' focused on bags. She is currently based in Milan, producing objects in collaboration with interior designers.

credit：danielamuellerbrunke

Designing Products Requires Knowledge of Materials & Planning

Firstly, could you tell us what motivated you to establish the brand?

After working with various brands in Tokyo and New York, I ran a women's wear brand, 'LUTZ & PATMOS', focusing on tailoring and knits, independently for 11 years。

The opportunity to create 'Lutz Morris' came from a chance encounter. When I lived in Berlin before the Covid pandemic, I got to know some German artists. They were in a tough situation, struggling to make ends meet without support from their government.

I was approached by a fashion counselor to see if there might be a place where these artists could work in New York. At that time, I was working as a creative director and wasn't directly involved in accessory design.

However, I visited their studios and was impressed by their leather weaving artworks. The idea came to me to combine that with bags, and from there, I dived into creating samples and established the leather goods brand.

At first, it was quite challenging to conduct research, such as considering whether or not to use synthetic leather. Drawing on my past experience, I contemplated hardware specifications and other aspects, eventually establishing the brand after a lot of trial and error.

How have you applied the experience you cultivated in fashion brands like 'Issey Miyake' in 'Lutz Morris'?

Knowledge of materials and design is indispensable for both clothing and bag designs. The same knowledge is necessary when making bags, not just coats.

As the materials used are the same, in a way, it's like cooking. What and how can you cook with the ingredients you have in front of you? I believe that's the job of a designer.

What is the philosophy of 'Lutz Morris'?

In an age when the cycle of fashion consumption is fast and products are just a click away, I wanted to create something that is not just for the season but can be loved for a long time. That means going back to family-run businesses that have been going for centuries and the techniques they invest in each piece.

'Lutz Morris' collection is for those who are looking not for a lot of things but for the right thing. They seek a connection with something that becomes a part of their lives.

For those who don't want many things but buy better ones, the work is consciously made and has a purpose. My design reflects this philosophy, aiming more for timelessness than catchiness.

I don't really believe in the power of logos, so I put all of them on the back of the bags. Even if it's on the front, the logo is very small. My policy is to avoid logos so that it doesn't overshadow the design.

The Industry Is Paying Close Attention to the German Leather Goods Brand 'Lutz Morris': The Inheritance of Craftsmanship & Support for People Behind Its Minimal Design

Designing Products Requires Knowledge of Materials & Planning

Firstly, could you tell us what motivated you to establish the brand?

How have you applied the experience you cultivated in fashion brands like 'Issey Miyake' in 'Lutz Morris'?

What is the philosophy of 'Lutz Morris'?

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