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2022.08.24

Why the World's No.1 Shoe sole Brand "Vibram" Is So Well Loved

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Vibram soles have been used in various types of shoes, from mountain boots to work boots. Recently, they have also shown their prowess in sneakers, like those from New Balance, making them increasingly trendy. This time, we spoke with Kumiko Sanada, the representative of Vibram Japan, to learn about the brand's unique philosophy and the reasons behind the high quality of these rubber soles, as well as their latest models.

"What Shoes to Wear & Where to Go" is the Starting Point

Vibram, the company that creates various shoe soles and has a market presence in over 120 countries, started with a mountaineer named Vitale Bramani. Kumiko Sanada, the representative director of Vibram Japan, who also has work experience at the headquarters in Italy, explains.
"Vibram soles are just parts, not finished products, so it can be hard to understand them. However, there is no doubt that they maximize performance depending on the environment. The founder, Vitale Bramani, who was born in Milan, Italy, loved mountain climbing so much that he joined the Italian Alpine Club at around 15 years old.
"As an adult, he opened a mountaineering gear shop called 'Bramani Sports' on the luxurious Via della Spiga in Milan and spent his free time climbing mountains while selling gear. His shop became a gathering place for mountaineers, and by his 30s, Vitale had become a central figure in the Italian mountaineering industry. It was actually on this luxurious boutique street that Vitale met the Italian tire manufacturer, Pirelli, who would later help develop prototype tests."
The founder, Vitale Bramani, was also a mountaineer who tested the performance of the soles he created by climbing snowy mountains with them. The company and brand name "Vibram" comes from his name
The founder, Vitale Bramani, was also a mountaineer who tested the performance of the soles he created by climbing snowy mountains with them. The company and brand name "Vibram" comes from his name
In 1935, at the age of 35, a tragedy struck Vitale. While climbing Punta Rasa in Switzerland, a sudden change in weather caused six of the seven climbers to lose their lives. The accident was largely due to the lack of shoes that could handle harsh conditions—at the time, the heavy leather boots with spikes driven into the soles were the only option. Vitale, being the sole miraculous survivor, embarked on creating rubber soles that wouldn't slip even on snow and could endure such severe environments.
In Vibram Japan's showroom, many sole samples are on display. Meetings for collaborative projects with domestic brands are often held while looking at these sample soles
In Vibram Japan's showroom, many sole samples are on display. Meetings for collaborative projects with domestic brands are often held while looking at these sample soles
"With the cooperation of the tire manufacturer, they created non-slip, lightweight rubber soles. Leveraging the community he built through his shop 'Bramani Sports,' in 1954, a mountaineering team equipped with Vibram soles successfully made the first ascent of K2, the second-highest mountain in the world after Mount Everest. This achievement was what brought global recognition to Vibram soles."

The Compound's Blend Changes Like a Recipe Depending on the Use

While Vibram soles are mainly made from rubber, they primarily use natural rubber sourced from Indonesia and Malaysia. Sanada explains their dedication to quality.
"The raw rubber is first cut into small pieces, mixed with various chemicals and materials, kneaded multiple times with a grinder to remove air. This air removal process is crucial for enhancing the strength. Then, it's molded into plates and baked to complete the sole. Although this is a simplified explanation, the ratio of materials varies depending on the sole being produced. At Vibram, this blending of rubber, akin to a recipe, is referred to as the 'compound'.
"The performance of the sole is only achieved when the 'design' of the groove shapes and the 'compound' suitable for the purpose are combined. We meticulously test how weight shifts during walking, how to land on surfaces such as snow or mud, and where to distribute force for efficient walking. In the end, soles with different functions in each part are launched worldwide as Vibram soles."
At the factory in Italy, strict quality control based on in-house research is conducted, from raw materials to the completion of the soles
At the factory in Italy, strict quality control based on in-house research is conducted, from raw materials to the completion of the soles
Vibram soles are developed based on the three pillars of "grip strength," "traction," and "comfort" to create high-performance rubber soles. The number of such soles is said to reach about 300 annually. The performance of these soles is brought about by the compounds and designs mentioned above. To enhance quality, more than 10 measurements are conducted, and field tests are carried out in actual usage environments. When I visited for an interview, I was surprised to find that at Vibram Japan, there are devices where you can actually wear Vibram soles to test their performance, such as checking if you slip on ice.
Vibram's commitment lies in their "compound map," which can be considered a recipe for mixing raw materials for soles. The mixture is adjusted according to the purpose, and about 300 types of rubber soles are produced annually.
Vibram's commitment lies in their "compound map," which can be considered a recipe for mixing raw materials for soles. The mixture is adjusted according to the purpose, and about 300 types of rubber soles are produced annually.
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