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Textiles Incorporating Traditional Japanese Techniques to the World: ZOZO NEXT's Challenge at SXSW

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In March 2022, the world's largest technology festival, "SXSW 2020," will be held in Texas, USA. ZOZO NEXT, an organization within the ZOZO Group responsible for creating new businesses and researching and developing technology, will be making the group's first attempt to exhibit at the SXSW Creative Industries Expo. With the concept to "UNVEIL THE FUTURE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY," this exhibition will explore the future of fashion guided by technology. What new experiences and values surrounding fashion will be proposed?
This time, we will introduce the textile booth. Various works created through "Project Foil," the ZOZO Group's first attempt at textile development, were showcased in "Ambient Weaving – Environment and Textile" held in Kyoto in the spring of 2021. For this exhibition, new works will be unveiled for the first time overseas. We interviewed Yasuaki Kakehi, Associate Professor at the Interfaculty Initiative in Information Studies, The University of Tokyo, and Satoshi Nakamaru of ZOZO NEXT MATRIX, who lead this project, to hear their thoughts and expectations. (Recorded online on February 24, 2022)
PROFILE
Yasuaki Kakehi

Interactive media researcher and artist. Associate Professor at the Interfaculty Initiative in Information Studies, The University of Tokyo. Ph.D. in Interdisciplinary Information Studies. Based on the research of interactive media utilizing physical material properties, exhibits are presented both domestically and internationally at events such as Ars Electronica. Recipient of the Young Scientist Award in the science and technology field from the Minister of Education, Culture, Sports, Science, and Technology, and the Excellence Award in the Art Division at the 23rd Japan Media Arts Festival. https://xlab.iii.u-tokyo.ac.jp/

PROFILE
Satoshi Nakamaru

Researcher and member of the MATRIX division at ZOZO Technologies, focusing on the development and commercialization of new technologies. Ph.D. in Media Design. Specializes in the development of soft functional materials and devices and the design of interactions and UX utilizing them. Alongside technological domains such as academic papers and patents, exhibits works at events like the Ars Electronica Festival. Recipient of the ACM DIS 2019 Best Paper Award.

Exhibition of New EL Work-Inclusive Textiles

First, please tell us about the exhibit pieces at the SXSW textile booth. We heard that there are new works updated from "Ambient Weaving – Environment and Textile" being unveiled.
KakehiWe will be displaying three main works. One is "Wave of Warmth," a fabric that changes color using leucodye from our joint achievement exhibit in 2021 at HOSOO GALLERY. The second is "Drifting Colors," a piece where water containing dye seeps through the fabric, continuously changing its color. Unlike at HOSOO GALLERY, where we created a large pond-like installation to absorb the dyewater, this time we will hang a large fabric from the ceiling, allowing the colors to travel within the fabric from top to bottom, creating a constantly changing pattern in a new installation.
KakehiThe third piece is "Woven Glow," a work incorporating EL. Previously, it was about 150cm in size, but this time it will be 4.8m with full-color EL slits in three colors. The lighting patterns are also reprogrammed to sync with sound in this new installation.
NakamaruWe are currently in the process of creating this work. We receive support from NIPPON SHOKUBAI Co., Ltd. as our production partner, just like last time. Previously, the EL emitted red light, but this time it will emit three colors: red, blue, and green. We have also increased the number of EL slits. The weaving is done in collaboration with the HOSOO team, and IMG SRC has developed a new circuit board to handle the larger scale.
With the three colors mixing, the display can show a variety of color tones, rather than just three separate colors. We're working closely with Professor Kakehi and his team to fine-tune these expressions.
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